Height Adjustable Tote Bag – Free Sewing Tutorial

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This tote bag, with a zipper in the center, allows you to easily change its height. The fabric used for this bag is from the “KONiTT” series, a textile brand that was born from listening to the firsthand ideas of handicraft artists. The top and bottom of the outer fabric and the handles use “Marusankaku Shikaku” with three different patterns, while the middle section features the “Shima Shima.” Both are 100% cotton oxford. They are easy to cut and sew, a perfect material for bag making.

Design & Work:Yui Tamaki

Fabric shown for this sample:(Outer Fabric–Top and Bottom, Lining Fabric, Handle, Tag)YK-11040-2E
(Outer Fabric–Middle) YK-11040-1E


  • Fabric (Outer Fabric–Top and Bottom, Lining Fabric, Handle, Tag): 110cm wide x 80cm
  • Fabric (Outer Fabric–Middle): 35cm x 30cm
  • Open Bottom Zipper: 60cm x One piece

Size (when zipper is opened):30cm (l) 30cm (w-at the opening) 20cm (bottom) 10cm (gusset)

We interviewed Yui about her creation:
Kokka Fabric (KF): What did you think of the fabric you used for this project?
The theme of the “Fabric Making Project” was “Ease of use and ease of cutting.” The material and pattern have realized these themes beautifully. I think this fabric is just right for making anything, and complements other fabrics well. Even without the interfacing, it is moderately structured so this time I decided to make a bag.

KF: Can you tell us any special elements or ideas that you incorporated into this creation?
“Marusankaku Shikaku” features three patterns in one, so I tried to come up with a bag in which you can enjoy all three patterns. The stripes in “Shima Shima” have relaxed lines, so they convey a natural look, and even if the cuts and seams are a little distorted, they will not stand out. The bag’s design is such that it changes dramatically when the zipper is opened.

KF: What are some tips for making this bag?
Since everything is sewn in a straight line, including attaching the zipper, even beginners will find it easy to try. When using a printed logo on the selvage as a tag, it is recommended to add a 1 cm margin around the logo on all four sides when cutting.

KF: How should we incorporate this bag into one’s styling?
Enjoy opening and closing the zipper depending on the amount of contents or your mood. When closed, the middle section becomes a convenient shallow pocket.

KF: Thank you very much, Yui! Here are sewing instructions along with step by step photos from her. Enjoy crafting!



Make the handles. With the front sides facing each other, fold in half and sew. Press the seam open and turn it inside out. Fold the center portion for 8cm and apply stitches. Make two pieces.


Piece together the outer fabrics. Press down the seam to the top and bottom side. Make two pieces. Attach a tag on one of the pieces (selvage is used for the tag).


With the front sides facing each other, sew one of the sides. Press the seam open.


With the front sides facing each other, layer the open bottom zipper over the outer fabric and sew together. ※Leave 3-4cm unsewn around the bottom stop.


With the front sides facing each other, fold in half. Sew the side, avoiding the zipper bottom stop.


Apply stitches from the front over the unsewn portion of the zipper.


Sew the bottom and gusset.


Baste the handle.


Make the lining bag. Sew the sides and sew the bottom, leaving an opening for turning. Also sew the gusset.


With the front sides facing each other, put together the outer and lining bags. Sew around the top opening.


Turn it inside out and close the opening for turning. Apply stitches around the opening.

◎Sewing Tutorial

◎Sewing Tutorial(PDF format / A4 size)

KOKKA’s official online shop information

Kokka Fabrics is the official online store run by Kokka USA, Inc. We specialize in printed fabrics but also have a wide range of high-quality solid textiles.
We ship to the United States and Canada from our warehouse located in Torrance, California.

cocca is the official online store run by KOKKA Co., LTD, based in Osaka, Japan. Alongside selected KOKKA fabrics, you can also find lifestyle goods like umbrellas inspired by our textiles.
We ship internationally from our warehouse in Japan.