Folded Bottom Shoulder Bag – Free Sewing Tutorial

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This is a shoulder bag with a lining. The fabric used for this bag is from the “KONiTT” series, a textile brand that was born from listening to firsthand ideas of handicraft artists. The outer fabric is “Marusankaku Shikaku” with three different patterns. The gusset and handle are made from the “Shima Shima” fabric. Both are 100% cotton oxfords. For the lining, “Happa”, 100% cotton sheeting is featured. All of the fabrics are easy to cut and sew, an ideal material for bag making.

Design & Work: Yuki Inomata

Fabric shown for this sample:

  • (Outer Fabric)YK-11040-2A
  • (Gusset, Handle)YK-11040-1D
  • (Lining Fabric) YK-11030-1E


  • Fabric (Outer Fabric): 110cm wide x 50cm
  • Fabric(Gusset, Handle): 110cm wide x 50cm
  • (Lining Fabric): 50cm x 100cm
  • Tag: One Piece

about 37.5cm (l) about 32cm (w – excludes seam) 17.6cm (gusset – bottom, excludes seam) about 48cm (handle)

We interviewed Yuki about her creation:
Kokka Fabric (KF): What did you think of the fabric you used for this project?
KONiTT is a fabric that I was involved with from its inception. The “marusankaku shikaku,” featuring a fresh blue color with a watercolor touch that evokes spring is well complemented by the “Shima Shima” fabric in navy. I was able to match both fabrics in a well-balanced manner to create a sharp look. “Happa” used for the lining fabric pull together a contrasting look of the refreshing white of the outer fabric.

KF: Can you tell us any special elements or ideas that you incorporated into this creation?
Since there are three patterns in one fabric, I wanted to make the most of all the patterns. For that reason, I changed the placement of the fabrics in the front and back. Combining it with solid colors is also fun. This time, I used only one kind of fabric “Marusankaku Shikaku”, by incorporating the portions where the design transitions.

KF: What are some tips for making this bag?
I recommend that you choose another fabric for the side that would bring the pattern on the body fabric to life. It is also fun to think about how to match the fabrics. The side tucks have been adjusted so that the three parts (body, lining fabric, and handle) do not overlap and can be sewn easily with a household sewing machine. Please use a No. 14 needle for thick fabrics.

KF: How should we incorporate this bag into one’s styling?
This shoulder bag is a modified version of the bag made from a single fabric. For this bag, the lining is added. With a lot of room, it can be used as a reusable bag! Even when you have a lot to carry, you can still look stylish. The width and length of the shoulder strap as well as the size of the bag can be adjusted to your preference and height. I hope that KONiTT will become everyone’s favorite fabric and people will make these bags for daily use.

KF: Thank you very much, Yuki! Here are sewing instructions along with step by step photos from her. Enjoy crafting!



Sew together the body outer fabric and side fabric with 5mm seam.


Turn it inside out. Sew to cover the sewn seam with new 7mm seam.


Sew the bottom with the accordion fold using 1cm seam.


For the accordion fold, finish the seam of the outer fabric without folding.


Fold the sides so that they align against the center of the sides and baste with 5 mm seam.


Fold the handle first at 1cm, then at 2cm and sew the edge.


Sew both ends of the lining fabric with 1cm seam.


Sew the bottom. Leave an opening for turning on one side.


With the front sides facing each other, place the outer bag inside the lining bag and sew the curve with 7mm seam. Cut a slit along the curve at 7mm interval.


Place the handle and baste with 5mm seam.


Fold in the lining fabric at the center using the accordion fold. Sew with 1cm seam.


Turn it inside out using the opening for turning.


Stitch all the way around the perimeter edge with 2mm seam.


Fold the handle in three to 6cm width. From the center, place the pin to hold at 10cm from the center. Stitch to make a square.


Sew along the stitch line on one side so that the new stitch line will not stand out. Close the opening for turning to finish.

Use the selvage with printing. It looks like a logo and stylish.

The bottom gusset looks like a caramel candy wrapper.

The navy fabric from “Maru Sankaku Shikaku” and blue from “Shima Shima” are used for this sample.

The beige fabric from “Maru Sankaku Shikaku” and yellow from “Shima Shima” are used for this sample.

◎Sewing Tutorial

◎Sewing Tutorial(PDF format / A4 size)

KOKKA’s official online shop information

Kokka Fabrics is the official online store run by Kokka USA, Inc. We specialize in printed fabrics but also have a wide range of high-quality solid textiles.
We ship to the United States and Canada from our warehouse located in Torrance, California.

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We ship internationally from our warehouse in Japan.