Jumper Dress – Free Sewing Tutorial

A jumper dress, which gives a completely different impression depending on what you wear underneath, is useful if you have one. The fabric used for this dress is a hand-washed cotton linen canvas fabric from the “NUNO TO MONO” series. Without being too thin or too thick, it has a slight tension, organic texture, and you can enjoy the naturally worn wrinkled look.

Design & Work:Yoko Kato


Fabric shown for this sample: YK-510-1D


Materials:

  • Fabric: 106cm wide x 3m
  • Fusible Interfacing: 80cm x 55cm

Size: Body Width 49cm Length 122cm

We interviewed Yoko about her creation:
Kokka Fabric (KF): This time we selected a washer finish cotton linen canvas fabric. Please tell us about the ease of cutting and tailoring when using this material.

The washer finish prevents the fabric from misaligning when layered, and the patterns are easy to place, making the cutting process to be effortless.

KF: What are some tips and tricks to keep in mind when cutting and tailoring?
After pre-washing in water and naturally dried, and during production, place the iron over the fabric softly without forcibly stretching or pressing wrinkles, and only to fix scores from folding.

KF: What are some tips and tricks for cutting fabrics from the pattern?For the body, first draw straight lines on the pattern paper, except for the front and back armholes and the back neckline, according to the pattern measurement. Layer the pattern for the armhole and neckline taken from the third page of the PDF download recipe, and draw curved lines.
For the skirt, since you only need to draw tuck lines on the rectangle, you can do so directly on the fabric with a Chaco liner without creating a pattern.

For more details about the pattern making, please refer to the video. If you are new to sewing, this video is also helpful:
Video tutorial! Dress making from original patterns.


KF: While the jumper dress is a large piece, where do you find the most pleasure in making it?
When sewing a curved part, raise the presser foot with the needle down and sew slowly while changing the orientation of the fabric little by little. When using bias fabric to finish the inside curve of the armhole like this time, please do not pull the bias fabric, but sew it by slightly easing the stitch for a beautiful finish.

KF: What are the key points for sewing parts other than the neckline and armhole?
When sewing a curved part, raise the presser foot with the needle down and sew slowly while changing the orientation of the fabric little by little. When using bias fabric to finish the inside curve of the armhole like this time, please do not pull the bias fabric, but sew it by slightly easing the stitch for a beautiful finish.

KF: What are the key points for sewing parts other than the neckline and armhole?
There are areas where the seam gets thicker, such as when sewing the body and skirt together. In such areas, try to sew slowly by reducing the speed of the sewing machine.

KF: This piece is a size M (body width 49 cm, length 122 cm). What if you want to adjust the length according to your height?
The length is set long for this jumper dress, but if you want it shorter or even longer, you can adjust it by adding or subtracting the skirt measurement.

KF: What will the comfort and texture of this fabric be like when it is made into clothes?The fabric has a softer feel than normal canvas fabric because of the washer finish, while still retaining the tension of canvas. Light colors (such as white and ecru beige) have a translucent feel, but you don’t need to worry the look with dark colors.
When washing, please spin moderately, and when drying, just tap the fold scores or stitched areas by hand only to adjust them, to make the most of the natural texture of the washer finish.

KF: What makes the jumper dress attractive?
Since the top and bottom are integrated vertically, it creates a slender look. A solid color piece is easy to style with other clothes. It is a convenient garment to have.

KF: What are some of the design features that you incorporated for this jumper dress?
I made it longer so that it wouldn’t look too childish, and transition is treated with tucking instead of gathering. Also, since there are no openings, the top portion is designed in a wrap- around style so that you can easily slip it on and off.

KF: Do you have any coordinating advice?
I think the colors and materials you wear underneath will give a completely different impression. You can go for a calm look with a solid color cut-and-sew shirt, or add a printed shirt or soft material blouse for a glamorous feel. A sporty look with a striped shirt and sneakers is also fun.

KF: Thank you very much, Yoko!

◎Sewing Tutorial

◎Sewing Tutorial(PDF format / A4 size)
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